To change motorcycle oil, warm the engine, drain the old oil from the sump, replace the drain plug washer and oil filter, refill with the oil your manual specifies, and check the level. Most bikes take under an hour and a short list of tools. The two things you must get from your service manual are the oil type and capacity and the torque values for the drain plug and filter.
This guide walks through the full job in order, flags the steps that need a torque wrench, and tells you when to hand the bike to a shop instead.
Before you start: what you need
Parts and fluids
- Engine oil in the viscosity and JASO or API rating your manual lists. Our guide to choosing motorcycle oil explains the ratings.
- A new oil filter that matches your model. See the oil filter guide if you are choosing between brands.
- A new drain plug washer (crush washer or sealing washer). Check your parts diagram for the size.
- A new filter O-ring or gasket only if it is not already on the filter.
Tools
- Drain pan large enough for the whole sump
- Socket or wrench that fits the drain plug
- Torque wrench (required, see below)
- Oil filter wrench or cap that fits your filter
- Funnel, rags and nitrile gloves
- Paddock stand or center stand to keep the bike upright and level
- Clean container for used oil
What needs the service manual
Do not guess any of these. Look them up for your exact model and year:
| Item | Where to find it |
|---|---|
| Oil type and viscosity | Owner's manual |
| Oil capacity with and without filter | Service manual |
| Drain plug torque | Service manual |
| Filter torque or tightening method | Service manual and filter instructions |
| Correct level check method (dipstick or sight glass, upright or on stand) | Owner's manual |
Capacity varies widely between bikes, and some engines have a separate oil tank or an external oil cooler that holds extra. Never fill by a number you remember from another bike.
How to change motorcycle oil: step by step
1. Warm the engine
Run the bike for a few minutes. Warm oil drains faster and holds more contaminants in suspension. Shut it off and let the exhaust cool enough to touch safely, since both the exhaust and the oil can burn you.
2. Put the bike upright and level
Use a stand if your bike has one. A bike leaning on a side stand drains unevenly and gives a bad level reading later. If your bike has no center stand, use a paddock stand or a rear stand rated for it, and make sure it cannot tip.
3. Position the pan and remove the fill cap
Slide the pan under the drain plug. Remove the oil fill cap or dipstick. This lets air in so the oil drains cleanly.
4. Remove the drain plug
Loosen the plug with the correct socket, not an adjustable wrench, so you do not round the head. Finish unscrewing by hand and pull it away quickly so hot oil does not run down your arm. Let it drain fully, usually several minutes.
Look at the old oil as it drains. Dark is normal. Milky or creamy oil, a strong fuel smell or visible metal flakes are not, and they are covered in the mechanic section below.
5. Inspect and clean the drain plug
Wipe the plug and check the threads. Many plugs have a magnet that picks up fine metal dust. A light gray paste is common. Chunks or flakes are a warning. Remove the old washer and fit the new one.
6. Remove the old oil filter
Move the pan under the filter, since some oil will spill. Loosen it with a filter wrench or cap, then unscrew it by hand. Check that the old rubber gasket came off with it and is not stuck to the engine. A doubled-up gasket is a classic cause of a big leak.
Some bikes use a cartridge-style filter inside a cover. Those need a new cartridge and often a new cover O-ring, and the cover bolts have a torque spec.
7. Prepare and install the new filter
Wipe the mounting surface clean. Smear a thin film of fresh oil on the new filter's rubber gasket. Do not fill a filter that mounts sideways, and follow the manufacturer's note on pre-filling if it gives one. Thread it on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten as the filter instructions or your service manual says. Many manuals give a torque, others give a fraction of a turn past contact. Use whichever your manual lists.
8. Refit the drain plug (torque wrench step)
Once the oil has stopped dripping, refit the plug with its new washer. Start the thread by hand to avoid cross-threading. Then tighten with a torque wrench to the value in your service manual. The drain plug screws into soft aluminum on most bikes, so overtightening can strip the case. A stripped sump is an expensive repair and not a driveway fix.
9. Add new oil
Use the funnel and pour in slightly less than the capacity listed in your manual. Then recheck the level and add in small amounts. It is easier to add oil than to take it out.
10. Check the level
Follow your owner's manual for the exact method. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation's T-CLOCS pre-ride checklist includes checking engine oil as part of the Oil and Other Fluids step. Typically you run the engine a minute or two, shut it off, wait for the oil to settle, then read the sight glass or dipstick with the bike upright. Top up until the level is between the marks.
11. Start it and check for leaks
Start the engine and let it idle for a minute. If an oil pressure light stays on, shut the engine off immediately. Check the drain plug and filter for drips. Shut it off, wait a minute, and recheck the level. Take a short test ride, then check the plug and filter again.
How to dispose of used oil
Do not pour it down a drain or onto the ground. The EPA says recycling used oil keeps it out of soil and water, and notes that the used oil from a single oil change can contaminate a large amount of fresh water. Pour the used oil into a sealed container, such as the empty oil jug, and take it to a recycling drop-off. Many auto parts stores and municipal collection sites accept used oil and old filters. Call ahead, since rules and limits vary by location.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Overtightening the drain plug or filter. This is the most common DIY damage. Use the torque wrench.
- Reusing the crush washer. It flattens once and may not seal again.
- Using car oil without checking. Some car oils carry friction modifiers that can make a wet clutch slip. Check the label against your manual.
- Forgetting the old filter gasket. Two gaskets stacked cause a leak.
- Checking the level on the side stand. The reading will be off.
- Skipping the fill cap. Oil can glug and splash if air cannot enter.
- Leaving a rag in the sump area. Check before you start the engine.
How long does an oil change take and what does it cost?
Plan for 45 to 90 minutes the first time, including cleanup. Parts for a typical DIY change are usually modest, depending on the oil type and the size of the sump. Varies by bike, region and shop, but a shop job costs more because it adds labor. Our oil change cost guide lists typical shop prices so you can compare.
To work out when the next change is due, see how often to change motorcycle oil. Keep a record of the date, mileage, oil and filter used so you do not have to guess next time. It also fits into the wider motorcycle maintenance schedule.
When to see a mechanic
Hand the job to a shop, or stop and get advice, if:
- The drain plug or filter threads are stripped or will not seal
- The old oil is milky, smells of fuel or contains metal flakes or chunks
- The oil pressure light stays on after the change
- Oil keeps dropping or leaks from somewhere new
- You do not have a torque wrench or the service manual specs
- You cannot reach or safely support the bike
- Your bike has a dry sump, an external oil tank or a complicated fairing layout that you are not comfortable removing
A shop can also check for other issues while the bike is up on a lift. Our motorcycle maintenance services page lists shops that do routine service, and you can compare motorcycle repair shops in Denver or your own city.
Quick checklist
- Warm the engine, then drain on a level, supported bike.
- Replace the drain plug washer and the filter.
- Torque the drain plug to the manual's value.
- Fill with the specified oil and check the level the manual's way.
- Check for leaks after the first start and after a short ride.
- Recycle the used oil and filter.
Frequently asked questions
Should I warm the engine before draining the oil?
Yes, a few minutes of running warms the oil so it flows out faster and carries more suspended debris with it. Let the engine cool a little afterward so you do not burn yourself on the exhaust or the oil.
Do I need to replace the drain plug washer every time?
Most manuals call for a new crush washer or sealing washer at each change, and they cost very little. A worn washer is a common cause of slow drips after an oil change.
What if I overfilled the oil?
Too much oil can foam and raise crankcase pressure, which can cause leaks and poor shifting. Drain a small amount and recheck the level on level ground until it sits at the correct mark.
Can I just drain the oil and skip the filter?
You can on some manuals' schedule, but a fresh filter is cheap and it holds old oil. Changing both is the safe default unless your manual says otherwise.