How to winterize a motorcycle and wake it up in spring

To winterize a motorcycle, wash and dry it, fill the tank and add fuel stabilizer, change the oil and filter, keep the battery charged on a maintainer, raise tire pressure or lift the wheels off the ground, plug the openings against rodents, and cover it with a breathable cover in a dry spot. Done well, the bike starts easily and rides safely in spring. Neglect it and you may face a dead battery, stale fuel, flat-spotted tires, corrosion and critters in the airbox.

Before you start

Decide where the bike will live. The best spot is dry, cool and stable in temperature, such as a garage. A damp shed or a spot with big temperature swings invites condensation and rust. Check your manual for storage notes specific to your model. If you want a refresher on routine service while you're at it, our motorcycle maintenance schedule shows what else may be due.

How to winterize a motorcycle, step by step

1. Wash and dry the bike

Dirt, bugs and road salt hold moisture and cause corrosion. Wash the bike, dry it fully and let it sit so water can leave crevices. Avoid spraying water into the exhaust or electrical connectors. Wax painted surfaces and chrome, and use a light corrosion protector on bare metal where appropriate, keeping it off brake rotors, pads and tires.

2. Handle the fuel

Fuel can degrade over months. You have two common approaches:

• Fill the tank and add stabilizer. A full tank limits air space and condensation and reduces rust in a steel tank. Add fuel stabilizer according to the label, then run the engine for several minutes so treated fuel reaches the carburetors or injectors.
• Drain the fuel. Some owners drain carburetor float bowls on carbureted bikes to avoid varnish. Follow your manual for the procedure and handle fuel safely.

If you use stabilizer, buy a product made for gasoline and read the instructions. Ethanol-blended fuel is more prone to moisture absorption, so some riders look for ethanol-free fuel where available. The AMA has long warned that higher-ethanol blends like E15 aren't designed for motorcycles, so use only the fuel your manual allows. Don't smoke or work near sparks when handling fuel.

3. Change the oil and filter

Used oil contains acids and moisture that sit in the engine all winter. Many riders change the oil and filter just before storage so fresh oil protects the engine. Warm the engine first so oil drains well. Use the correct grade from your manual, and see how often to change motorcycle oil if you're unsure about timing.

4. Check coolant and other fluids

On liquid-cooled bikes, make sure the coolant is the right mix and has adequate freeze protection for your lowest temperatures. Check brake and clutch fluid. If the brake fluid is due for a change, winter downtime is a convenient time.

5. Lube the chain and cables

Clean and lubricate the chain. Our chain maintenance guide covers the right way to clean and lube it. Lightly lubricate cables and pivot points, except where the manual says not to.

6. Take care of the battery

A battery left connected through the winter can discharge and sulfate. Battery University advises keeping lead-acid batteries fully charged in cold conditions, since a discharged battery's electrolyte freezes at a much warmer temperature than a charged one. You have options:

• Use a smart maintainer that matches your battery type, and leave it connected if it is designed for long-term use.
• Remove the battery, store it indoors somewhere cool and dry, and charge it periodically.
• Whichever you choose, keep the battery somewhere with a stable, moderate temperature. The old warning about concrete floors matters little for modern sealed batteries.

If you have a lithium battery, use a lithium-compatible charger, and follow the manufacturer's storage advice, which often calls for a partial charge and not a full one. Battery University also notes that lithium batteries should not be charged below freezing. See our AGM, lithium and gel battery guide for how the types differ.

7. Protect the tires

Tires can develop flat spots if the bike sits on them for months. Inflate them to the upper end of the recommended range, or use paddock stands to lift the wheels off the ground. If using a stand, make sure it is stable and the bike can't fall. Keep tires out of direct sunlight.

8. Block the openings

Mice and other small animals love airboxes and exhausts. Plug the exhaust outlets with a rag or a plug made for the job, and attach a visible reminder tag to the handlebar so you remember to remove it. Do the same for the airbox opening if it is accessible. Rodent deterrents can help, but keep any poison away from food and pets.

9. Cover the bike

Use a breathable cover. A plastic tarp traps moisture and can cause rust and cloudy paint. Choose one that fits well so it doesn't flap and scuff the paint.

10. Check insurance and registration

Some insurers offer storage coverage or lower rates during layup periods. Check your policy so you stay covered for theft, fire and damage.

Should you start the bike during the winter?

Starting the engine for a few minutes does more harm than good in most cases. The engine does not reach full operating temperature, so moisture and condensation build up in the oil and exhaust rather than burning off. If you want to start it, run it until it is fully warm and holds temperature, but ideally leave it alone and rely on proper preparation.

De-winterizing in spring

1. Remove blockers and the cover

Pull out the exhaust and airbox plugs and look for nests, chewed wires or droppings. Inspect the wiring harness for rodent damage before you start the bike.

2. Check the battery

Reinstall or reconnect the battery, with the terminals clean and tight. Test the voltage. If it won't hold a charge, replace it.

3. Check fluids

Look at oil, coolant, brake fluid and clutch fluid levels. Check for leaks under the bike. Fresh fuel in the tank is a good idea if the old fuel has sat for many months or smells sour.

4. Inspect tires

Set tire pressures to the recommended cold values. Look for cracks and flat spots and check the DOT date. NHTSA says manufacturers recommend replacing tires six to 10 years old regardless of tread, and old tires can look fine and be unsafe.

5. Test the brakes and controls

Check brake pad thickness, lever and pedal feel, and look at lines for cracking. Operate the clutch, throttle and shifter. The throttle should return briskly.

6. Clean and lube the chain

Check chain tension, sprockets and wear, then lube the chain.

7. Check lights and electrics

Test the headlight, brake light, turn signals, horn and dash.

8. Start and warm up

Start the bike, let it idle briefly and listen for abnormal noises. Check for leaks as the engine warms. Take the first ride gently in a safe place, since tires and brakes may need a little time to come alive.

A quick checklist

Winterize	De-winterize
Wash and dry	Remove plugs and inspect for pests
Stabilize or drain fuel	Check fuel for freshness
Fresh oil and filter	Check oil and coolant levels
Maintain or remove battery	Charge and test battery
Lube chain and cables	Clean and lube chain
Raise tire pressure or use stands	Reset tire pressures and inspect
Plug exhaust and cover	Check brakes, lights and controls

How much does it cost to winterize a motorcycle?

Costs vary by bike, region and shop. DIY supplies such as stabilizer, a battery maintainer, a cover and oil can add up to roughly $100 to $300 depending on what you already own. Many shops offer storage or "winterization" packages that commonly run from about $100 to $300 or more, with spring prep services priced similarly. Ask what's included. You can find specialists on our page for motorcycle maintenance shops, or compare motorcycle repair shops in Brooklyn.

When to see a mechanic

Get a professional involved if:

• The bike has been stored for years rather than months
• You find rodent damage to wiring, hoses or the airbox
• There are fuel leaks, rusty fuel, or a carburetor that won't clear
• Brakes feel soft or the fluid is dark and old
• The bike won't start after a fresh battery and fresh fuel
• Tires show cracking or are past their age limit
• You are not comfortable draining fuel or working with the cooling system

A bike that sat a very long time can need much more than a spring tune-up, so a shop inspection is cheaper than a roadside failure.