Motorcycle handlebar types: how to choose the right bars

The main motorcycle handlebar types are clip-ons, clubman, drag, motocross, cruiser, beach, buckhorn, T-bars and ape hangers. The right one depends on how you want to sit: low and forward for sport riding, upright for comfort, or high and wide for a custom look. Bars that fit your arms, the bike's clamps and its cables will be more comfortable and safer than the ones that only look good in photos.

Below is how each type changes your riding position, plus what to check before you swap.

Motorcycle handlebar types at a glance

Type	Description	Riding position	Common on
Clip-ons	Two short separate bars clamped to the fork tubes	Low, forward, weight on wrists	Sport and race bikes
Clubman	One-piece bar with ends angled slightly back	Low, crouched	Cafe racers and vintage bikes
Drag bars	Nearly straight, narrow	Forward-leaning	Customs and cafe builds
Motocross	Tubular bars with a cross-brace	Standing and neutral	Dirt bikes, dual-sport and adventure bikes
Cruiser bars	Long and swept back	Upright, relaxed	Cruisers
Beach bars	Wide and angled back toward the rider	Relaxed, upright	Cruisers and customs
Buckhorn	Shorter, curved with ends angled in and down	Upright to moderate	Customs and vintage bikes
T-bars	Drag-style with built-in risers	Relaxed, moderately upright	Customs
Ape hangers	Very tall bars, rider reaches upward	Arms raised	Choppers and cruisers
Z-bars	Straight, mitered tubing with sharp angles	Varies with riser height	Customs

Descriptions follow common usage and differ between makers, so check the exact dimensions of any bar you buy.

Clip-on handlebars

Clip-ons are two short stubs that clamp to the fork tubes, usually below the top triple clamp and on some bikes above it. They put you low and forward, with more weight on your wrists and a tucked position that suits sport bikes and track riding.

Pros

• Aggressive riding position and good leverage for quick steering
• Light and compact
• Easy to adjust angle and position on many designs

Cons

• Tiring on long rides, especially for your wrists and back
• Limited steering lock on some bikes
• Harder in slow traffic and tight U-turns

Clubman and drag bars

Clubman bars are one-piece bars that sit on the top triple clamp, with ends angled slightly back, giving a low crouched position. Drag bars are nearly straight and narrow, producing a forward-leaning stance. Both are popular on cafe racers and custom builds.

Pros

• Sporty look and stance
• Simple, clean lines

Cons

• Less comfortable than upright bars for long distances
• Narrow bars give less leverage at low speed
• Cable routing and control placement can be a puzzle

Motocross and dual-sport bars

Motocross bars have a cross-brace to resist twisting, and they are made for standing, leaning and controlling the bike off-road. Adventure and dual-sport riders use them for the same reason.

Pros

• Strong and durable
• Good leverage for slow, technical riding
• Wide range of bend shapes and heights, so you can fit them to your height

Cons

• Bar bend and height must match your riding position
• Mounts, risers and controls need to fit the bar diameter

Cruiser, beach and touring bars

Cruiser bars are long and swept back so you sit upright with your hands at a comfortable height. Beach bars are wide and angled back toward the rider for a relaxed posture.

Pros

• Upright, relaxed position
• Less weight on wrists
• Comfortable for long highway days

Cons

• Wide bars catch more wind and make lane splitting or tight spots harder
• Can feel less precise in fast corners
• May need longer cables and lines

Buckhorn and T-bars

Buckhorn bars are shorter, curved bars with ends angled inward and down toward the rider. T-bars resemble drag bars but have built-in risers forming a T shape, for a more relaxed position.

Both suit custom and vintage bikes where you want a distinctive look and a moderately upright stance. Check how the bar sits against the tank and gauges at full lock.

Ape hangers

Ape hangers are very tall bars that raise your hands well above your shoulders on many riders. They are the classic chopper look.

Pros

• Distinctive custom appearance
• Open, upright seating position

Cons

• Raised hands can tire your shoulders and reduce control
• Harder to reach controls for shorter riders
• Longer cables, brake lines and wiring are almost always needed
• Some jurisdictions limit handlebar height, so check local rules before you buy

Which handlebars are right for my motorcycle?

1. Start with how you ride. Sport riding, commuting, touring, off-road and cruising each favor different bars.
2. Consider your body. Arm length, height and shoulder width change which bars feel right. A bar that is perfect for a tall rider can be a stretch for a shorter one.
3. Check the clamp diameter. Handlebars come in different diameters, and your clamps, risers and controls must match. Do not guess.
4. Check the controls and cables. Brake and clutch lines, throttle cables, kill switches and wiring must reach the new bar position and route cleanly.
5. Check full steering lock. The bars must clear the tank, fairing and gauges when turned all the way, and cables must not bind.
6. Check your local rules. Height limits and lighting or mirror requirements vary by state.
7. Think about resale. A bike returned to stock bars often sells easier.

For help with parts quality, see our guide on OEM vs aftermarket motorcycle parts.

Cables, lines and wiring

Handlebar swaps are never just the bar. Control parts often need to change:

• Throttle cables or throttle-by-wire connectors may need to be longer, and fly-by-wire bikes may have limits.
• Clutch cable or hydraulic line: length affects pull and routing. Our guide on clutch cable adjustment and lubing cables cover maintenance.
• Brake line: a line that is too short or kinked is a safety risk. After any hydraulic change the system must be bled. See how to bleed motorcycle brakes.
• Wiring: switch housing wires, heated grips and the kill switch need enough slack.
• Mirrors and levers: may need different mounts.

If a cable or line is stretched tight at full lock, it will fail or interfere with steering.

Handlebar symptoms and problems

Symptom	Possible cause	What to do
Numb or tired hands	Position, vibration, grip	Adjust bar angle, consider a different bar
Vibration through the bars	Loose mounts, worn parts, balance	See our guide on motorcycle vibrates at high speed
Wobble or head shake	Many causes	See motorcycle speed wobble; a steering damper can calm it but won't fix the cause
Bars loose or shift	Loose clamp bolts or risers	Stop and have them checked
Cables pull at full lock	Cables too short	Replace with longer cables
Bar bent or cracked	Crash or fatigue	Replace, do not straighten

Bent bars after a crash should be replaced, and the forks and steering checked. Our guide on what to check after a motorcycle crash covers it.

Cost

Costs vary by bike, region and shop. As a rough range, handlebars commonly cost from about $40 to $250 or more depending on material and brand, with cables, lines and risers adding to the total. Shop labor depends on how many controls and cables have to be changed. A custom job with wiring and brake lines takes longer. See typical motorcycle repair costs for general pricing.

When to see a mechanic

Handlebars connect you to the steering, brakes, clutch and throttle, so the work matters. A custom motorcycle shop can fit new bars, route the cables and check the controls. To find one, browse the motorcycle repair directory. See a professional if:

• The bars are bent, cracked or loose
• Cables or lines are tight, kinked or rubbing at full lock
• The throttle sticks or does not return
• You need to change brake lines and bleed the system
• The bike has electronic throttle or integrated switches
• You are unsure about the legal height in your state

Do not ride with loose bars or a throttle that sticks. Fix it before the next ride.